Saturday, February 16, 2008

Another Day in Bangkok

It has been an incredibly long day. I picked up my camera first thing this morning and its working much better. The shutter has rusted due to the moisture in the air and also likey by far too laid back disregard for taking pictures with wet hands, but the technician was able to clean it enough that it works for now. I'll get it truly fixed in India/ After the camera shop, I was ready to head to the weekend market. I didn't know exactly what it was called, but when I spotted Chakawat Market on my map, I figured that had to be it. It sounded something along those lines, and was the only market on the map that started with a C. Feeling up for a decent walk, I walked down to the peir and boarded the ferry. Pointing to the name of the peir that I wanted to go to, the ferry driver, a morbidly obese Thai man dressed like a sailor, nodded and moitioned for me to board. A few minutes later we're slowly making out way across the river to the adjacent pier. All of the passengers get off, except me. I wait patiently as more people get on and find seats. Soon enough the sailor lookalike/ferry captian is backing up the ferry and manuevering the akward barge in the equivalent of a 3-point turn. COnfused, I look around, but no one else seems startled by the fact that we're putting across the river to the pier I just came from. Once again, the entire boat disembarks except for me. This time, the ferry driver motions to a passing long-tail boat, and nods enthusiastically, while pointing tot eh opposite bank of the river.So, once again I cross the river--third times a charm, right?--but this time I get off the ferry with the other passengers. I pay my fare, buy a ticket to Ratchawong Pier and wait for the long-tail boat that supposedly arrives every 20 minutes. Sure enough the boast arrived within 10 minutes and I was happy to see it loaded with camera-toting tourists. When I started overhearing snippets of conversations regarding the weekend market I knew I was on the right track. Once again, I was happy to see the other tourists disembark at Ratchawong Pier with me, however, according to my map, I needed to cross the river once more to get tot he market, Chakawat Market. But no one else was waiting for the ferry to the other side.Maybe they're hiring a taxi to take them to the other side, I thought to myself.

I arrive on the other side of the river and head towards the market. The streets are filled with vendors selling fried fish, curies, and endless sweets. The alley ways are packed with fabrics, toys, and household goods. Comforted by the fact that I had found the market, this self assurance quickly disappeared when I reached the end of the market within a few short minutes. This is supposed to be the biggest market in Asia, this can't be right. After checking and rechecking my map, I was 100 percent confident that I was at Chakawat Market. Utterly confused, I stop into an internet cafe and find directions online. I google Bangkok Weekend Market...Chatuchak pops up. Shoot. I've gone to not only the wrong market, but Chatuchak Market is no where to be found on my map. Who knows how far away this market is. It's amazing how the rearranging of just a few letters can take a few hours out of your day!

So I start walking, cross back over the river, wind through China Town, stop for lunch, share a beer with an old drunk, hire a tuk tuk to drive me to the SkyTrain (which I read online goes directly to the market), get suckered into stopping at a tailor shop in exchange for a half-price tuk tuk ride, look around the Indian run tailor with absolutely no intention to buy anything, get back in the tuk tuk only to be met with a very disappointed looking driver (apparently I didn't stay inside the shop for the required 5 minute minimum, so he won't get his free litre of gas from the tailor), and am told that if I still want a 20 baht fare instead of 40 baht, I'd have to go to see a bead factory to make up for my lack of enthusiasm at the tailor! Luckily I recognized where I was, paid him the 20 baht and walked the rest of the way. I eventually made it to the weekend market, which truly is massive and sure enough the very first thing I saw being sold were tie-dyed, second hand T-shirts from the US. I wnated to buy on so badly, but couldn't find one that I love in my size. Oh well. The next shop was selling cowboy boots, Wranglers, and bandanas,a ll to the tune of Garth Brooks. Next it was puppies--imported direct from the US--boxers, pugs, Alaskan huskies. Those poor puppies looked miserable in the Bangkok heat. And so it continued. I spent 4 hour wandering through, but enough was enough, my feet were aching, it was getting dark, it was time to go/ I never did find the bugs.

Back at Khao San Road, I met up with Angie (my German friend from Ko Chang) and while walking around the streets after dinner, we spotted a guy selling fried bugs! He gave us a sampling of his best sellers--maggots, silk worms, grasshopper, and a giat cockaroach looking thing. After stopping at 7-11 to buy post-critter munching treats (chocolate, chocolate, and more chocolate!) we settled down just outside our guest house and over nervous, excited laughter, bravely popped grasshoppers into our mouths. Crunchy, salty, greasy, not bad. The maggots and silk worms were next. Not so crunchy, not so tasty--a little mushy and buggy tasting. I braved the giant cockaroach first, taking a nice big bit boff its back end. My tongue and teeth were squirted with a bitter slim that turned out to be his green insides. The legs got caught in my teeth and the exoskeleton was tough to get through, but I managed ok. I handed what remained to Angie. She cautiously took a nibble, got the awful squirt, starting gagging, and while fumbling for her chocolate milk to wash down the unexpectedly gross taste, nearly lost her dinner. I think I'll lay off the bugs for a while, but the experience won't be one I'll forget!

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

I don't know if I've told you, but you have balls of steel. The cockroach thing is beyond anything I'm brave enough to do. Grasshoppers would be OK. But the cockroach? It would bring back memories of my apartment on B Street in Davis! Anyways, last night I had a dream that you came home for Christmas, it was weird. I think I'm sad that this will be the first time in a long time that you haven't been there to celebrate with me on my birthday! Hope you're having fun and have a safe passage to India. I can't wait to see more pictures! Although I know with your camera not working so well it might be a while. Take care, I miss you!

Anonymous said...

Eeeewwwww...a daughter after my own heart; try anything once. Don't know if I'd have the stomach for it anymore. What a wonderful tour of Southeast Asia, and we've so enjoyed you sharing all the wonderful details and phenomenal photos. India will be a shock, and one that will be forever in your memory. Enjoy you last day in thailand. It's been so good to talk to you. Bonne voyage, be well and be safe. We miss and love you lots.

Beatriz said...

Wow, you finally got to try bugs! Isn;t it funny how they really weren' t that easy to find when we were there? I think I could have done a grasshopper, but there is no way in hell I would have tried a cockroach or anything that could squirt. Gross!
I miss you tons, I am so happy I got to talk to you the other day, if you get a cell phone in India be sure to pass that number to us! Good luck and be safe in India... love you!