Goodbye Muong Ngoi

I am really going to miss this place. Muong Ngoi is one of those rare treasures that hasn't yet been exploited. With no road and no electricity, the pace of life here is slow and clam, flowing with the river, waking ans sleeping with the sun. It is so quiet, so peaceful, so remote. The only sounds you hear during the days are the shrills of monkeys somewhere in the thick canopy, the chattering of birds, and the soft lull of the river. The night air is filled with frogs and crickets conducting a grand symphony. Next year electricity is scheduled to arrive and shortly after that a road. It won't be long before the shores of the river are lined with bards catering to the Westerners every whim, guest houses piled on top of each other, and hoards of drunk, bikini-clad Americans, Canadians, Europeans, and Australians are floating down the Sam Om in inner tubes. One more paradise lost in the name of progress.

I can't believe January is already 2/3 the way over. Time seems to be absolutely flying by! This is my fourth day in Muong Ngoi and so far my days have consisted of short hikes, paddling up stream in a traditional Lao canoe, swimming in the chilly water, warming my body on the sandy banks, reading to my heart's content, and of course, lazing in the hammock overlooking this beautiful place. I was planning on leaving today for Luong Prabang, feeling a little guilty that I haven't seen more to Laos yet, but I just can't muster up to leave. Maybe tomorrow. Today I'm going to enjoy the market that only comes to the village every 10 days and once it warms up a bit, I think another canoe trip will be on the agneda. As for now, a cup of strong Lao coffee sounds great!