Thursday, August 28, 2008

A Long Day from Mozambique to Tanzania

Being in Dar Es Salaam and staying at Cathy's house is exactly what I needed. We arrived last night after 15 hours of hitchhiking our way from Mozambique. We spent most of yesterday in the back of a big rig, crawling at a walking pace along a pot-holed dirt road, covering just 200km over the course of 7 hours. The cramped seating, the sluggish heat, and piercing tang of African beats had pushed me to a near breaking point. I sat tucked up into a ball consciously taking deep breaths, calming my agitated thoughts, trying not to think about my rumbling stomach, or the 12 hours we still had ahead of us. And then the engine stopped. 50km from the nearest town, the sun descending quickly towards the horizon, Kate and I sat on the dirt embankment among the dry grasses and prickly bushes, as our 3 male driving team jerry-rigged a solution to the pestering engine problem. I was no longer annoyed, but a little scared. Scared that we'd be stranded with no village in walking distance, with no food or water, and with 3 men in rural Tanzania in the dark. Kate and I exchanged glances. The worry and concern displayed through a tense silence, the paralysis of movement, and prolonged stares off into the distance. Luckily, the scenarios running through our minds vanished when the truck's engine roared to life and the driver shouted, "Twende, twende!" We crawled back into the sleeping quarters of the cab and tucked into the most comfortable positions possible. Happy to just be moving forward, I noticed a difference in my thoughts. What was just an hour before a frustrated, agitated, and negative mindset, had completely flipped to one of appreciation and gratitude to at least be in a moving vehicle. The universe always gives you the experiences you need for the evolution of your consciousness, and this was a clear reminder that a situation is only what you make it, it is how you consciously choose to perceive it. There's no room for negativity, as your situation could always be worse.

Painstakingly we bumped and jolted along the once paved road, a road that's been forgotten and left to the brutalities of nature, watching as over the course of a few hours a handful of private vehicles zoomed past us. I was grateful for the ride we had, but with each passing vehicle, feelings of jealousy crept up as I calculated our chances of getting to Dar before midnight slowly dissolve. Just as the sun disappeared, we screeched to a stop to buy charcoal from a group of boys sitting on the side of the road. Rather than staying in the truck, I hopped out too, barefoot and determined. I stood just beyond the truck, on the side of the road and prayed. I payed to Jesus, to Allah, to Buddha, and to Lord Shiva. I prayed tot he universe to bring a vehicle for us. I stood there in hopeful concentration and pleaded to the universe for help. A few minutes later, the universe answered my prayers. The pickup truck was only going another 30km down the road, but seeing it as an answered prayer, Kate and I hastily threw our bags into the flat bed and waved goodbye to the excruciating hours of big rig travel. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I kept an eye out the back window, hoping to catch a glance of headlights that maybe, just maybe would be heading for Dar. Just outside of town, we stopped at a police check, and while the driver was being questioned by the authorities, distant headlights raced towards us. As the high beams approached us, I hesitated, but didn't want to risk losing the opportunity to ask. I hopped out of the truck, and again barefoot, ran to the stopped vehicle, waited until the policemen finished their questioning and asked the million dollar question, Are you going to Dar Es Salaam? A wave of hopeful euphoria consumed me as he invited me to jump in. I think I let out a high-pitched scream, threw my hands in the air, spun around on my dancing feet, and waved to Kate to hurry up. I couldn't wipe my face of the smile, of the joy that radiated from my eyes, or of the laughter that bubbled from my soul. The workings of the universe are awesome!

We barreled down the road, flying past villages and towns, past kids bolting across the street and goats and chickens darting to avoid becoming road kill at an exhilaratingly terrifying 140km/hr. By 10pm we were dropped in front of Cathy'sghouse and greeted by her inspiring smile and excited embrace. We exhaustedly showered and devoured a brilliant display of grapes and fresh, hot pasta before collapsing into her massive bed and falling into a deep, deep sleep.

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