Crossing into Malawi and Exploring the North

It's been 6 days since we arrived in Tanzania. 6 long, tiring days of rough bus rides, long waits on desolate, deserted roads, and more meals of beans than either Kate or I care to stomach. After yesterday's 18 hour, 450km bus ride along a sandy dirt track from Tabora to Mbeya, we hopped on yet another bus this morning at 7am on our way to the Tanzanian-Malawi border. We got thoroughly ripped off both on the price of our bus tickets and in the process of changing money, but once we got all of that behind us, we got our passports stamped, waved goodbye to tanzania, and crossed into Malawi, my 12th country in the past 10 months. The beauty of Malawi astonished me--dramatic green peaks, turquoise-jade water streched out towards the horizon. One-fifth of Malawi is covered by Lake Malawi, a tropical, warm, fresh water lake that not only provides the livlihood for millions of Malawians, but also attracts sun worshiping, beach loving tourists. Starting in the north of the country, we're making out way first to Vwanza Wildlife Reserve and Nyaka National Park. We made it as far as Rumphi today on public transportation, but entrace to either of the parks is another 50km from town. After valient, but unsucessful attempts of catching a ride with goods delivery trucks, Kate and I bought some Doritos and sat on the side of the main road and waited. The afternoon was pressing into evening and we'd just about given up hope of making it into the park today, when Roberta and Augernio slowed to my pleading hand gestures. The Italian couple agreed to take us into the park. Our plan had been to go to Nyaka Park, but when Augernio veered the car in the opposite direction, our plans instantly changed. It's interesting that everyday we wake up and have a general idea of what the day will hold, but everyday brings with it surprises and unexpected turn of events that by the time we go to sleep, a completely different day was enjoyed and experienced than what was expected. It's a nice way to live.
Roberta and Augernio were going to Vwanza Wildlife Reserve, and now, so were we. We had no idea what the accomodations would be like, not to mention any idea if there would be any availability, but we've never let that stop us before. An hour outside of town we happened upton the small, unassuming park gate, paid the $5 entry fee, and ventured off into the park to find a place to stay. The woman at the gate gave the simple instructions to "go straight," and that's what we did. A few hundred meters down the dirt road, a family of elephants gathered, grazing on shrubs and tugging leaves off of trees. What we thought was just 3 elephants turned into 7 or 8 as they meandered along the road and through the thick, dry vegetation. We waited patiently in the car, not wanting to get too close to the group which included a few females and their babies. Kate excitedly videotaped what she could from teh backseat, enthusiastically narrating what will likely be very boring footage. After about 20 minutes of wiating, the group cleared the road and we were able to contiue on our search for a small gathering of huts "just up the road." Dusk was giving way to the setting sun and Roberta began expressing her concern about driving around unguided, in the path of wild animals. Blocked by fallen trees and overgrown grasses, the road we were instructed to drive down abruptly ended. Confused, and now even more concerned, Augernio turned the rented sedan around and drove cautiously back towards the main gate. The road split off at various junctions, but with dilapidated, worn signs providng no true clarity, Augernio made the frazzled executive decision to ask one of the park rangers for directions rather than venturing further into unknown, wild territory in the midst of animals migrating to the watering hole for their nightly drink. Good decision Augernio!
It turns out we passed the small huts just after clearing the main gate. Three rustic, reed huts sat grouped together overlooking Vwanza March where hippos and elephants lounged by the water. The dropping crimson sun cast a magical hue across the golden grasses as we sat enchanted by the elephants playing in the water, enthralled by the powerful barks of hippos, and astonished by the vividness of the moment.