Sunday, March 9, 2008

Dolphin's Nose

I woke up early this morning after a great night's sleep (there's something about the cool air and the coziness of warm wool blankets) feeling a little nauseous. Unsure if it was hunger or something else, I walked around town a bit and finally settled on a leisurely breakfast at one of the hotels. I saw cornflakes on the menu and instantly knew that's exactly what I needed. A little dose of American food did just the trick, and before long I was on my way out to the scenic lookout point of Dolphins Nose. Along the way I met a villager, David, who spoke fantastic English and who turned out to be a trekking guide. We got to talking and soon he invited me back to his home for a cup of chai and to meet his beloved dogs. At one point he had 17 dogs, but 10 died recently from what sounded like, eating too many flies. His dogs that didn't have such an unfortunate fate were beautiful--pure bred Great Danes and Huskies. I'm not sure where he found pure bred dogs in India, but it was evident that they were his pride and joy. We drank tea, played with his dogs, and discussed life in India. But, he had business to attend to and I had a hike to do, so I went on my way after expressing my gratitude for his generous hospitality.

The 90-minute walk out to Dolphin's Nose was quiet and tranquil in the early morning hours. The fresh, distinctive scent of eucalyptus filled the misty air as I made my way down the tree-trunk rutted path. Thick clouds shrouded most of the views, but the serene quiet was a perfect way to start the day. Dolphin's Nose turned out to be a giant rock that juts out over an amazing valley. With or without the clouds, being way out there, hanging over a valley hundreds of meters below was exhilarating. After taking in the splendor of my surroundings for what could have been 15 minutes or 2 hours, I have no idea, I started back up the path. The quiet serenity of the morning was last as Indian tourists filled the path. The hike back was immensely more challenging, be it the elevation, the uphill climb, or me simply being out of shape, I'm not sure, but my lungs were burning and my heart was pumping! I eventually made it back to town after a few curious detours, devoured lunch, and then treated myself to Kodaikanal's speciality--chocolate. A hearty sweet-tooth is welcomed here with nearly every shop selling a wide assortment of homemade chocolates, honey, and ice cream. I filled up on cashew and almond dark chocolate, settled back into my cozy bed, and took a nice long nap. It was pretty much a perfect day. Now, I'm sitting in a fancy hotel in the center of town, enjoying a cup of coffee, writing in my journal, and watching people stroll by on the street. Another great day in India.

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